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Next, (if applicable) look for the date code on the tube chart.If your amp dosen’t have a date code, flip the amp upside-down and check the transformers, and speakers for their manufacturer codes.Here is a cool link to a Vintage Fender Amp price history chart that tracks sales data for specific amp models by the month.Date Code: Wide panel, narrow panel, brown, blonde, and black face amps have a date code hand-stamped on the tube chart. The first letter translates to the year and the second to the month. Example: FG=July 1956, QA=January 1967, and a reissue CG=July 1992 EIA Source-Date Codes: Electronic components such as transformers, potentiometers, speakers, and some capacitors are often stampted with a date code indicating who manufactured them and when.The next one or two numbers are the month where January is 1 and December is 12. Example: AB763 = second revision, July, 1963 AA1070 = First revision, October, 1970 Misc Dating Info: Silver face amps with the aluminum trimmed grilles are from 67 or 69.The fist Master volume controls were first installed in 72.
You need a speaker with a lower audio output, so you should consider the spec known as SPL, or sound pressure level (sometimes called sensitivity).
Here’s a list of brands along with their EIA codes.
(I’ve also included a few others brands you might encounter as aftermarket installations.) This should help you identify your speaker.
Fender often used the same circuit for many years so this is not a very accurate method for amp dating.
The code is simple, the first two letters are the revision, where AA is the first revision, AB is the second, etc.
I was thinking of trying a Celestion Gold 50, but I usually only play in my bedroom, and I don't want to increase the amp’s volume. Both amps produce very loud hum whether or not a guitar is plugged in. Or is there some other possible cause you can point me to? Most factory speakers in Fender amplifiers have what is known as an EIA code that specifies their manufacturer.